TestimonialsTestimonials For Americans, South Africa is a place of magic, mystery and miracles. Initially though it is a land of confusion: the seasons are reversed, strange stars dot the velvet sky and water drains counterclockwise. And as proof you’re in a new world, those wonderful animals you adore and take your grandchildren to see in the zoo are roaming wild! To see a bull elephant step quietly out of the bush and cross before your vehicle to reach the Marula trees nearby; a Cheetah and her cubs watch a grazing impala herd; the Lilac Breasted Roller flash turquoise and blue to the next Camel Thorn tree; the wildebeest turn and gallop away kicking up their heels or the warthogs hoist their tails like antenna and trot smartly into cover, is all part of the amazing variety of what’s in store for you clear across the world. When you go to the Kruger National Park in the far northeast corner of South Africa, you are the ones fenced in at night and are happy to be so as the night vibrates with lion roar and hyena laughter. And so it was that in April 2005 George and I were returning after twenty years absence. Partly to celebrate fifty years together and partly to re-experience the miracle that is Africa. We are hunters as well as trained naturalists and environmentalists and that is what drew us back. There are few places on earth that offer the wide spectrum of game, diversity of landscape and such challenging hunting. In 1985 we had spent a week at Rooisport near Kimberley hunting in Cecil Rhodes’ old shooting preserve. Living in a luxurious tented safari camp, we had worked hard and done well. Each night, sitting under the Southern Cross that seemed to lean down as if to whisper an African lullaby, we watched the firelight and talked about the wonder that is South Africa.And now we are headed for Swala Lodge near Bela-Bela in northern South Africa with our lifelong friends, J.P. Bigotte and Susie Naversen. The anticipation was high, but the flight was long and it was four weary and bedraggled specimens that were greeted in Johannesburg by Bryn Thomas, our host, and Seymore Coetzee, his manager. Bryn is a friendly vibrant Welshman and soon had us relaxed and laughing as Seymore drove us northwards. As we alighted in darkness at the lodge, a choir of African voices broke into song to welcome us. And so the magic began.
The Lodge, built of local rust red stones and topped with thick thatch grass roof, with inside a great hall that you read about in England. Inside, the hall encloses bar, dining area and a large lounge with fireplace. At least a dozen elephants would fit in the space comfortably. Beyond the office a wing houses six ample bedrooms each with its own bathroom. The furniture is simple, hand made of local wood, polished and aromatic. The “look” everywhere is quietly elegant and comfortable. Out beyond the dinning area is a large roofed porch nearly 30’ x 40’ overlooking the swimming pool and further waterhole. A lot of time is spent in this prime viewing spot. Bryn’s two professional hunters are Seymore and Kobus, both Afrikaans. Kobus’ wife, Riana, runs the household and kitchen with her skilled staff. The food is delicious, plentiful and often includes a variety of game. Desserts are fatally attractive as our scales can attest. Not only are you presented with three excellent meals a day, there is a coffee & cookie break in midmorning and an almost high tea at 3pm. Coffee, soft drinks, beer and water go with you everywhere and it doesn’t take much to produce a quick coffee stop and resulting tree break. Kidneys beware! The days revolve around an early morning hunt and a late afternoon hunt, but the pattern varies a lot. Our first morning was leisurely to accommodate our jet lag. Bryn, Seymore and Kobus (pronounced “Quibus”) toured us around the property in a comfortable Toyota truck equipped with 2 tiers of padded seats on its open bed. April is the start of their fall – so early mornings and late afternoons are cool if not cold. You dress in layers: shedding them as the day wanes. By midday it is warm or even hot and everyone, including the animals, retires into the shade or Lodge until the temperature begins to dip again. After lunch (and a nap) that first day we sighted the rifles: first at 50 yds, then 100 yds, and finally using the “sticks” you will use in a stalk. It was a little nerve-wracking using a new gun, but Bryn is a master at building confidence. Everyone had their turn and left feeling ready for the hunt to begin. Although Susie would not be hunting, she came out nearly everyday to see the animals.
When Bryn fenced the property he designed a series of roads that traverse the land in a careful pattern to cover all the sight lines. They insure you the best game viewing. Even the largest grassy plain aptly called ‘the Serengeti’, is crisscrossed with these lanes. The game in this private preserve is mostly plains animals: Zebras, Waterbuck, Impala, Red Hartebeest, Blue Wildebeest, Blesbuck, Oryx and Kudu. Diminutive Steenbok and Duiker occasionally are seen and the nocturnal Bushbuck less often. The comic Warthogs are common and Ostriches strut their stuff with dignity. The only predators are Black Backed Jackals and perhaps the reclusive Brown Hyena. They feed amply on the many ground birds like Francolin and Guinea Fowl and whatever smaller animals or young they can catch. Our big surprise was finding a 9 foot African Python lazing besides the road: he must have been 8-10” in diameter and beautifully patterned.
Everyday was a new adventure – you never knew what was around the corner, in the bush besides you or watching your retreat. Each hunter got most of the animals they wanted and never tired of the view or the circumstance. Although somewhere on ‘the Serengeti’ J.P.’s Zebra stallion is still thumbing his nose at us! One afternoon we visited a nearby Cheetah Farm and learned how they were being carefully bred to reintroduce to the wild. There were Caraculs, Wild Cats, Cervals and Wild Dogs each in their own enclosure. Most gorgeous of all was the Royal Cheetah born there – so called because their spots run together to form mahogany stripes along their back and sides. Another day we took off for Pilanesberg National Park – two hours away and located in a large volcano crater. Rugged hills and koppies framed grasslands, bush and lakes and supported the famous African animals: Elephants, Rhinos, Leopards, Wild Dogs and Crocodiles, as well as the plains game we had seen at Swala Lodge. We were fortunate enough to have the senior game warden for our driver as the first animal we saw was a large middle-aged bull elephant who let know we were too close with three ‘mock’ charges! Finally he moved off the road and allowed our adrenalin to disperse. It was a remarkable afternoon of discovery and pleasure. It culminated when wild dogs made a kill just off the road and raced around us yipping and chirping in excitement!
In midweek we were treated to chamber music when a trio from Pretoria came to entertain us. There was a lady cellist, her brother played violin and the other young man played the flute. They were wonderful and included English and American songs in their performance. We all ate dinner together before they serenaded us again. The rainy last night began with the choir’s return and soon had us toe tapping and swaying to their exuberant rhythms. Then came the big surprise!! Zulu dancers!! To the deep drumming of big drums, out of the rain six costumed men and six women came storming into the out door porch stamping and singing. It was stunning! Suddenly, Chaka Zulu, the tall leader, sprang forward with shield and spear raised. Cloaked in skins, he danced with power and dignity. Each man soloed stamping and shouting – the women somersaulted, stamped and trilled. We were mesmerized! They had driven nine hours from Zululand to perform for us and would turn around and drive back the same night. The opportunity was too good to miss and we all had photos taken with the troupe and Chaka. Too soon the last day arrived and we were on our way home again. Would we return? In a flash – tomorrow, next week, next month! It is so seldom you get to share someone else’s dream and discover you have stepped into a hunter’s wonderland. What an incredible place; what a grand adventure and what wonderful people! Thank you Bryn, Seymore, Kobus and Riana. Much love to all, The Hunt
At last we reached the bush and the Swala Lodge. Last year I stayed at the Swala Lodge and was anxious to experience this part of Africa with my wife and Tom and Nancy. “Swala Lodge is a privately owned game farm situated about 35 kilometres from BelaBela in the Limpopo Province of South Africa.” The Lodge is newly constructed and the private area is reserved exclusively for hunting parties no more than four hunters. Bryn Thomas, a British citizen and a retired senior Citibank officer, owns the lodge. There are a total of nine staff members, including 2 professional hunters. The Swala Lodge offers a special South African experience: by day the hunting is top notch, by night we were enthralled by the display of local entertainment including the township choir and separately an authentic and highly professional Zulu dance troupe. We hunted with two hunters with each professional hunter in a traditional hunting vehicle (land cruiser) with benches mounted on top. Breakfast was at 5:45 a.m. and we would be on the trucks by sunrise (around 6:30). We would go out into the bush and upon spotting game we would leave the trucks and begin to stalk. The game in the area is plentiful and the hunt is as challenging as you want it to be. There can be stalks of up to a couple of hours. Tom and Nancy were successful in collecting two magnificent kudus, one 53 inches and the other 58 inches. We were pleased with the staff. The professional hunter was Seymour Coetsee, 30 years old Afrikaner trained in forestry and has had his professional hunting license for four years. He is extremely competent and quite serious in executing his profession, which provides for an excellent and safe hunting environment (experience). The other professional hunter was Kobus, who is joined by his wife Arianna who acts as the general manager of the kitchen and also is an accomplished equestrian and manages the equestrian center. On a typical excursion, after leaving the vehicle, we would venture by foot through the thorny brush. At the approximate moment when the best line of sight and opportunity was available, the shots were taken using a 375 at approximately 110 yards.
Tom, in addition to his kudu, collected an oryx and an eland. Nancy, in addition to her kudu, collected a blue wildebeest, and two blesbuck. This being Nancy’s first African safari proved to be a successful one. This was also Peggy’s first safari and her most treasured moment of the trip was a trek by horse through the bush. On the ranch, Bryn has developed a complete equestrian center where he breeds horses and has replicated two turn of the century carriages that were used in early colonial years at the cape. One day we were able to ride in the carriages out into the bush, which allows you to get closer to the animals for game viewing and enjoying the countryside. Our time in the bush was perfectly complemented by the entertainment assembled by Bryn. Bryn has built a relationship with the people in the township 10 miles away and sponsors the local church choir. In return for that sponsorship, they love to come and share their talents with visitors. Their repertoire is exclusively traditional African music and that adds a dimension to your stay that is usually not available to most visitors to South Africa. The choir entertained us for two nights.
Like most members of Shikar, the old and new, Tom, Nancy, Peggy and I were astounded by our trip to South Africa. Part of the magic of Capetown and South Africa as a whole is that on each visit we are able to discover a new dimension of the country, its nature wonders, its hunting treasures and its amazing people. I close with a quote from Bryn Thomas our host in the bush (though I’ve taken a bit of poetic license) – Anyone who visits South Africa will never forget it, in fact most find it addictive.
|
Swala Lodge and its surrounding 7000+ acres are the result of Bryn’s clear concept of what a great hunting experience should be and his unique ability to expedite that dream. It is a remarkable place indeed.
Up early the next morning we were rarin’ to go! Everyone goes out together in the truck. The first hunter sits in the front row with Bryn on one side and either Seymore or Kobus on the other; the rest ride behind and are game spotters. Eagle-eyed Lucas and a helper complete the party. Bryn was our back-up in case a second shot was needed. Since many of the shots are over 150 yards, that is a sound practice. And without a doubt, Bryn, who has hunted in the UK and Africa for years and in all kinds of conditions, is a fast and accurate marksman. 
All the animals are healthy, fat and reproducing with great success. We saw herds of 100-150 Blesbuck; at least 3 herds of Zebra; hordes of Wildebeest and golden rafts of Impala. There is enough space and variety of habitats to suit every species. It has been brilliantly planned and carefully maintained.
The evenings at Swala were special. Wales is famous for its rich tapestry of history and music and Bryn is an exceptional Welshman. Music of Welsh choirs and operatic highlights were woven into the sunset and growing darkness each night. Sometimes we couldn’t get the volume high enough to match our spirits – other nights the music was the joyful background to the recital of the day’s activities. And always there was laughter. Four cultures were meeting here: The United Kingdom (Bryn), France (J.P. Bigotte), Afrikaans (Seymore, Kobus & Riana) and USA (the rest of us). There is something about outdoorsmen and hunters that makes them instant friends, natural raconteurs and comedians. Those evenings of shared life stories, music and laughter are etched in memory now.
At last it was time to head towards the bush, and no method of transportation can be compared to the luxury rail experience of the Blue Train. The Blue Train combines the charm and luxury of train travel with the service and ambience of the world’s finest hotels all the while the landscape of Africa serves as your view. After settling into luxury accommodations that echo the era of the finest Pullman cars, we enjoyed a gourmet meal in the dining car and after dinner drinks in the lounge. We made a stopover in the town of Matjiesfontein where we were given a guided tour on an English double-decker bus. Though we covered less than a half-mile, the tour lasts 25 minutes and is thankfully capped by a glass (or two) of sherry and a serenade from an accomplished lively jazz pianist. The Blue Train is a lovely unique experience, especially with good friends.
I was successful in collecting a kudu, not nearly the specimen quality of Tom and Nancy (but then again they were my guests (to a certain extent) so I was simply being gracious). I also collected two zebra, a wildebeest, a waterbuck, two impala, a warthog and a jackal. One of my zebra stalking was quite rewarding. We picked up the herd of zebra about one mile off in the distance. At that time they were in an open field. We left the truck and went into the tree line, which we followed to get us closer to the herd in order to identify the stallion. As we went through the bush, and I might add a heck of a lot of thorns, to just about where we would be able to have a good view, the herd had moved about 500 yards and the stallion was out by himself. We were able to stay in the tree line and got within 250 yards of the stallion and then we ran out of cover. So the Zebra shot was quite long, but, I was lucky and he went down with one shoulder shot.
On a separate evening, a dance troupe from Natal Zwa Zulu portrayed the story of Shaka the great Zulu leader, the only African tribe to defeat the British in combat. The presentation is extremely professional and informative and the actors are dedicated to authenticity and reverence for the story. Their traditional Zulu costumes include short spears and tribal shields, but the most extraordinary aspect of the recital is the chants and percussion accompaniments. The booming vibrations penetrate the entire physical surroundings and are absolutely exhilarating. Due to a lack of words, all I can say is it is simply impressive as hell. After the performance we had an audience with the leader of the troupe, Shaka.